If you’ve found coins sealed in plastic cases, or you’re wondering whether to get yours “graded,” here’s what it all means in plain English, and when it’s actually worth doing.
Grading is just a trusted third party answering two questions for a buyer: Is this coin genuine? and What condition is it in? The plastic case is how that answer travels with the coin.
When a coin is sent to a grading service, three things happen: the coin is authenticated (confirmed genuine), assigned a grade for its condition, and sealed in a tamper-evident plastic holder, the “slab”, with a label listing the date, type, and grade. That holder lets anyone buy the coin with confidence without being an expert themselves. It’s why slabbed coins trade so easily.
Coins are graded on the Sheldon scale, which runs from 1 to 70:
• 1–58 are circulated grades (the coin shows wear), described with terms like Good, Fine, Very Fine, Extremely Fine, and About Uncirculated.
• 60–70 are Mint State (MS) grades, for coins that never circulated. MS-70 is flawless.
• Proof coins, specially struck for collectors, use a parallel PR or PF scale (e.g., PR-69).
A jump of just a point or two near the top of the scale can mean a large difference in value, which is exactly why accurate, independent grading matters so much for better coins.
Two services dominate and are trusted market-wide:
• PCGS, Professional Coin Grading Service.
• NGC, Numismatic Guaranty Company.
Both are excellent. A coin in a PCGS or NGC holder sells readily anywhere in the country, and the market respects both. They differ a little in label design and some fees, but for the typical seller, either one is a recognized, reputable choice. Be more cautious with off-brand holders from lesser-known companies, those grades are not always trusted, and a coin may need to be re-evaluated. There are also older, reputable names like ANACS you’ll occasionally see.
Grading isn’t free, there are submission fees plus secure shipping and insurance, so it only makes sense when the grade adds more value than it costs. As a rule of thumb:
• Worth grading: key dates, scarce types, and coins in genuinely high condition, where certification can unlock a meaningfully higher price.
• Usually not worth grading: common, circulated coins worth close to their metal value, where fees would eat up the benefit.
This is one of the most useful things a dealer does for you: looking through a group and pointing out the handful of coins actually worth submitting, versus the many that aren’t. Sending in the wrong coins is a common and expensive mistake. See my rare coin and appraisal services.
Great, leave them in their holders. Don’t crack them out; the slab is what certifies the grade and authenticity, and removing the coin destroys that and risks damage. If you inherited a group of slabbed coins and want to know what they’re worth, text me photos of the labels (the grade and certification number on each) and I can tell you a lot before I even see them in person.
A grading service authenticates the coin, assigns a grade on the 70-point scale, and seals it in a tamper-evident plastic holder (slab) with a label. It lets buyers trust the coin without being experts.
Both are the top, market-trusted services. Coins in either holder sell readily. They differ slightly in labels and fees, but for most sellers either is an excellent choice.
Only when the grade adds more value than the fees and shipping cost, generally for key-date, scarce, or high-condition coins. Common, worn coins usually aren’t worth submitting.
No. The slab certifies the grade and authenticity and protects the coin. Removing it destroys the certification and risks damage. Leave graded coins as they are.
Text photos of your coins (and any slab labels). I’ll tell you which are worth submitting and which aren’t.